Late Breaking - Individual Paper
9. Foodscapes: Cultivation, Livelihoods, Gastronomy
In the past, tempeh, a traditional Indonesian food made from fermented soybeans, was associated with the less affluent Javanese community who couldn't afford animal-based protein sources. Over time, tempeh has gained widespread recognition as a high-protein alternative to meat and as a dietary solution. It is now enjoyed by people from all social classes and nationalities, and is even served in various upscale restaurants. Today, Indonesians take pride in referring to tempeh as an 'authentic Indonesian dish,' and it is officially celebrated on 'National Tempeh Day' every 6 June.
By delving into archives including magazines, bulletins, and songs centered around tempeh in Indonesia, this research aims to uncover the transformation of discourse and imaginary surrounding tempeh from time to time. The shifts in its image are portrayed through the varying social classes that consume tempeh, now encompassing not only the low-income group but also the middle class. These groups hold distinct perspectives on tempeh: the low-income group views it as accessible and affordable sustenance, while the middle class associates it with issues such as diet, healthy life style, and climate change. Additionally, the influence of activities on social media, such as online challenge movements and YouTube content, further shapes the discourse about tempeh and contributes to molding the idea of "nationhood" and “nationalism”. As the primary ingredients of tempeh, soybeans, are predominantly imported from the United States, this global flow of influence introduces intricacy to the discourse surrounding tempeh and its relationship to the idea of nationhood.
Abdullah Faqih
Gadjah Mada University, Indonesia