1 - Independent migrant restaurateurs and neighborhood foodways in Tokyo

From New York to Shanghai, international migrants prominently contribute to the foodways of global cities.  The outsized role played by migrants on urban foodways has both supply-side and demand-side influences. On the provider side, migrants disproportionally seek opportunities in gastronomy due to barriers to entry into the primary urban labor markets. On the consumer side, “ethnic cuisines” are sought-after by well-traveled urban culinary omnivores. Tokyo is no exception to these patterns, with migrants from around the world opening independent restaurants at different price levels creating varied market niches. Still, comparatively little scholarship exists on migrant gastronomy in Tokyo, and this paper attempts to provide an overview, first by using online data to provide a rough statistical overview of “ethnic” cuisine in Tokyo as a whole. It then uses qualitative data from one community to describe the varied pathways of migrant restauranteurs into the food service industry in Japan. The case studies of independent migrant restaurant owners outline the importance of bridging social capital, including marriages and friendships with Japanese. It also discusses how these migrants participate in urban placemaking, including the creation of multicultural urban third spaces attracting diverse regular customers.